The Sleeping Beauty of Everest: Francys Arsentiev
“The Sleeping Beauty of Everest” may not be a term many know, but it tells a great story. It has a rich history of mountain expeditions.
Reaching the summit of the world’s tallest mountain, Mt. Everest, is everyone’s dream. But it does not suit everyone.
‘The Sleeping Beauty of Everest’ is a title given to the late climber Francys Arsentiev, who also sought the same dream. However, it did not come out as she had expected.
The story here is unclear. But don’t worry, we will explain the backstory. This is how she earned the title of “The Sleeping Beauty of Everest.”
Mount Everest itself is home to multiple risks and dangers. Areas like Death Zone or Rainbow Valley, Hillary Step, and Green Boots are some of them. Not only them, but almost all sections of Mt. Everest are prone to life-threatening dangers.
The trails are treacherous and slippery, and the weather is harsh and unpredictable. At high altitudes over 5000 meters, low oxygen levels can be dangerous. This is especially true if you are not prepared.
On the contrary, many climbers risk all their lives to make history on the page of mountaineering. Some people climb the peak without oxygen.
Some even try to climb Everest several times in a short time. However, these are the only pro-mountaineer exercises.
The Tragic Tale of Francys Arsentiev: Everest’s Sleeping Beauty
A view of the snowy Mount Everest might make you think there are no signs of death in the ice. For many years on the Northeast Ridge route, climbers saw a troubling sight.
The story of the ‘Sleeping Beauty of Everest’ sadly shows the dangers of climbing mountains, especially the tallest one. This article will tell the sad story of Francys Arsentiev and her last climbing attempt. It will also discuss her impact on the climbing world.
In May 1998, Francys Arsentiev tried to become the first American woman to climb Mount Everest without oxygen. Francys was born in Honolulu, Hawaii, and her love for mountain climbing brought her to this particular challenge. She and her husband, Sergei Arsentiev, planned a trip that would become a tragic expedition. This journey made them part of Everest history.
On May 22, 1998, Francys was able to summit the mountain, as she had always dreamed. The coming back, though, was deadly. Tired and struggling to breathe, Francys was once more separated from her husband and climbing team. They had to turn back due to dangerous terrain.
At that point, other climbers found her in fierce frostbite but conscious and unable to get up. In the end, however, the help she received proved useless, for the mountain proved deadly to Francys.
For almost ten years, no other climbers came back to get the body of Francys Arsentiev. It was on the northeast ridge of Everest. People lovingly called her “the sleeping beauty of Everest.”
Over time, the constant snow and wind that kept the mountain ‘alive’ would slowly cover and freeze her strong body, which was ‘resting.’ A body that appeared peacefully asleep and apparently carelessly left, glorifying the power of the mountain. In 2007, Ian Woodall moved her body for burial. He made sure it was discreetly located and completed a mission that ended her story.
The story of Francys Arsentiev and her husband shows another danger on Everest that climbers know well.
Who was Francys Arsentiev?
Francys Arsentiev, popularly known as Sleeping Beauty of Everest, was an American mountain climber who loved to climb the tallest buildings around the world. She was born with a spirit of adventure. She spent her life trying to overcome tough challenges in the mountains.
In May 1998, Francys Arsentiev, along with her husband Sergei Arsentiev, took up the daunting task of climbing the mighty Everest without the use of supplementary oxygen. After many tries, the two climbers reached the top on May 22, 1998. This made Francys the first American woman to climb Everest without using bottled oxygen. Such extraordinary achievements ensured her entry into the annals of mountaineering history.
However, the Arsentiev couple had their success cut short. While descending the peak, extreme weather and lack of oxygen caused unfortunate consequences. Francys became stuck up the mountain, unable to go on because of frostbite and tiredness. Although other climbers tried their best to save her, Francys fought against the elements and lost on May 24, 1998, at the age of 40.
The Francys Arsentiev family suffered even more loss when Sergei Arsentiev died, who was trying to save his wife. Such a fall serves as a heavy reminder of the risks that people encourage almost at the top of the world.
Story of Sleeping Beauty of Mount Everest: Cause of Death
The story of Francys Arsentiev, who earned the nickname “The Sleeping Beauty of Everest,” provides a perfect understanding of how extreme Everest can be to climbers attempting to summit it. Francys Arsentiev and her husband, Sergei, embarked on a journey with a remarkable purpose: climbing to the highest peak of the world without carrying supplementary oxygen.
On May 22nd, 1998, Francys became the first-ever American woman to scale the peak of Mount Everest without the use of oxygen tanks. Nevertheless, that moment of joy for the couple soon transformed into a nightmare when the couple started climbing down. Almost depleted by the severe altitude, Francys and Sergei split up under the difficult heights.
The following day, an Uzbek ascent team found Francys – not only alive but looking rather drearily frostbitten and out of breath. They will suffer complete exhaustion from their quest to help her, resorting to retreating due to the lack of oxygen in the rescuers and the Turbulent area as well.
This was on May 24 when Ian Woodall, a British climber, along with a South African Cathy O’Dowd, stumbled upon Francys’ body. They tried to assist her and help continue her descent but were stopped by the freezing temperatures and dangerous landscapes or atmospheric conditions. With the dead body on the slopes of Everest at thirty years of age, it left a turning point for many people caring for Francys Arsentiev.
What Were The Last Words of the Sleeping Beauty of Everest?
As enchanting as it seems, the last moments of Francys Arsentiev’s death are variously enshrouded in both enigma and pathos.
Some climbers contend that Francys Arsentiev’s final message was a last-minute apology, which may be somewhat jocular. In some citations, people last summarized her to have emerged with the words, “Do not leave me.”
Nevertheless, it is important to keep a level of skepticism concerning these narratives. As a matter of fact, who would know how Francys Arsentiev said her last words? Are you ready to call everyone who was with her when she was dying?
Is Sleeping Beauty Still on Everest? Was Her Body Found?
Yes, the body of the sleeping beauty of Everest is still there.
Almost eight years after her death, the corpse of Francys Arsentiev on the northeast ridge of Everest was discovered. Those passing climbers would see her serene figure, a violent and treacherous elevation epitome that suspended its threats to gain solace.
From the climbing route, Francys Arsentiev’s body is out of sight for now. However, it is still on Mount Everest. Where she was laid to eternally rest is not available for public knowledge, in adherence to the requests of Francys Arsentiev’s relatives. This has cemented the fact that her remains will be buried on the summit of that mountain that she revered and loved so much, with no interference from other climbers.
The account of the Sleeping Beauty of Everest will remain a chilling account of high-altitude climbing and its attendant risks. It further demonstrates the climbing fraternity’s appreciable efforts in memorializing their deceased colleagues, even in a very remote part of the world.
Francys Arsentiev’s Husband and Family
Climbing and loving her husband Sergei Arsentiev were the two main passions that guided the life of Francys Arsentiev. The lovebirds met on a memorable trip to Mount Annapurna. They bonded over their shared interest in climbing.
Francys married Sergei 1993, a climber from Russia. He earned the title ‘Snow Leopard’ for climbing many peaks over 7000 meters.
In just a few years, they climbed many peaks in Russia. They also set new records along the way.
The joint efforts of the Arsentiev couples also demonstrated their full physical potential in mountaineering. They authored the first ascent of Peak 5800m, which later received the name Peak Goodwill.
Francys was the first American woman to ski from the top of Mount Elbrus. She also climbed both the east and west summits of the mountain. The only common goal left was to climb Mount Everest without using extra oxygen. This dream would ultimately lead to their downfall.